Style Manual

The modern man’s guide to dressing well every day

Short or long beard

Short of long beard (c) Tommy Cairns

Choosing the right beard for your face can be tricky. For starters, you need to make sure you have the right facial hair to grow a beard as not everyone does. But if you’re blessed in this department, you have the choice from a variation of two main easy beard styles: shorter, or longer. We spoke to the experts at Ruffians Barbers who gave us the following tips:

Shorter beard

Sported by Beckham, Gosling and many a celebrity, the shorter beard is an achievable and easy to maintain look. Allow the hair to grow for a couple of weeks, and when you start seeing strays, it’s time to take action. Take a trip to your barber as they can properly consult you on how to look after your beard at home. If this isn’t possible, follow these steps to achieve neat beardy greatness:

  • Wet your face with warm water, and dry off but not too roughly. The hairs should be soft.
  • Figure out where you would like the hair to be heavier, as this can emphasise the best features of your face, or conceal the less ideal parts.For instance, if you have a longer face, make sure the growth isn’t too heavy on the chin, as this will further elongate your face. If you have a round face, keep it tight on the cheeks, and grow the chin out a bit heavier, in order to elongate your face and make it appear more rectangular.
  • Use a set of electric beard trimmers, and with upward motions, take the beard down uniformly to the desired length.
  • Snip away at any strays with scissors, and apply a beard oil such as Ruffians Argan Beard Oil. Not too much, as this could make it look too wet. A perfect amount would be 2-3 drops – this will keep your skin and hairs well nourished, and retaining the right amount of moisture and add a nice fragrance too.

Beard trimming (c) Tommy Cairns

Longer beard
You will need to grow this out for a couple of months probably, depending on your facial hair growth. Here are some tips to grow something that goes an inch or two below the chin without too much fuss:

  • Don’t trim your beard for starters! You’ll need to keep every possible hair in order to build the foundations for this look.
  • If it starts to look unruly on your cheeks, use detailers in an upward motion (so you don’t accidentally trim into the beard) to neaten up the lines.
  • Keep the hair on the neck, as this is helpful in supporting the end of the beard.
  • Once you’ve achieved your desired length, run your hands through your beard, blow-drying with a comb, in order to see its shape when relaxed. If it is growing slightly outwards, it’s best to trim with clippers so that it lines up directly with your cheekbones.
  • Apply a beard oil, and run through the hair to keep it retaining moisture and looking healthy.
  • Wash and condition your beard every 2-3 days with suitable products such as Ruffians Moisturising Shampoo & Conditioner in order to avoid beard dandruff and flaking.

Lather up (c) Joe Josland

Clean shaven

Let’s face it – some of us just don’t have the right facial hair to join in on this beard trend. As devastating as that is, it’s far better to own the clean shaven look than appear with bum fluff and a patchy face.

If you want to go the whole hog, make sure you prepare your skin correctly, as this will help to protect your face from the harsh winter elements.

  • Use an exfoliating scrub (Ruffians Daily Facial Scrub) to get rid of any dead skin cells and cleanse your face
  • Wash away with warm water. This will help to open the pores, softening the stubble which can help to achieve a cleaner shave
  • If you are able to use a straight edge or double edge razor, this is when you lather up your shaving foam with your badger brush. Apply a pre-shave oil (Bluebeard’s Revenge Shave Oil) and work the foam onto the skin in circular motions, so it has the consistency of aerosol foam.
  • Use your razor with downward motions, keeping the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin, always going in the direction of the growth of the hair. Stretch the skin with your other hand to keep it taut
  • If you are using a safety razor, you don’t need to apply a pre-shave oil, but use a high-quality shaving gel (Ruffians Sandalwood Shaving Gel) – avoid aerosol can shaving foams, as these usually contain alcoholic preservatives which will dry out the skin and causing flaking
  • Wash away all remnants of foam with cold water, in order to close up the pores
  • Apply an alcohol-free moisturiser (Ruffians Daily Facial Moisturiser)
  • Add an aftershave, but only to the back of the neck and your wrists (this will avoid irritation and inflammation on your newly shaved face)
  • If you follow these steps, you can avoid blood spotting, ingrown hairs and irritation. Your skin will be conditioned, and have a protective film over it from the moisturiser.




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